Risotto with Four Cheeses

This is a very rich Italian dish. Serve it for a special dinner-party first course, with a light, dry sparkling white wine. Recipe serves 4.

Ingredients:

3 tablespoons butter
1 small onion, finely chopped
2 pints (1.2 litres) chicken stock preferably home-made
1 3/4 cups risotto rice
Scant 1 cup dry white wine
1/2 cup grated Gruyere cheese
1/2 cup diced Taleggio cheese
1/2 cup diced Gorgonzola cheese
2/3 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Chopped fresh flat leaf parsley, to garnish

Method:

1. Melt the butter in a large, heavy-based saucepan or deep frying pan and fry the onion over a gentle heat for about 4-5 minutes, stirring frequently, until softened and lightly browned. Pour the stock into another pan and heat it to simmering point.
2. Add the rice to the onion mixture, stir until the grains start to swell and burst, then add the wine. Stir until it stops sizzling and most of it has been absorbed by the rice, then pour in a little of the hot stock. Add salt and pepper to taste. Stir over a low heat until the stock has been absorbed.
3. Gradually add the remaining stock, a little at a time, allowing the rice to absorb the liquid before adding more, and stirring constantly. After 20-25 minutes the rice will be al dente and the risotto creamy.
4. Turn off the heat under the pan, then add the Gruyere, Taleggio, Gorgonzola and 2 tablespoons of the Parmesan cheese. Stir gently until the cheeses have melted, then taste for seasoning. Spoon into a serving bowl and garnish with parsley. Serve the remaining Parmesan separately.

Porcini and Parmesan Risotto

The success of a good Italian risotto depends on both the quality of the rice used and the technique. Add the stock gradually and stir constantly to coax a creamy texture from the starch grains. This variation on the classic Risotto alla Milanese includes saffron, porcini mushrooms and Parmesan cheese. Recipe serves 4.

Ingredients:

2 tablespoons dried porcini mushrooms
2/3 cup warm water
4 cups vegetable stock
Generous pinch of saffron strands
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
1 garlic clove, crushed
1 3/4 cups Arborio or similar rice
2/3 cup dry white wine
2 tablespoons butter
2/3 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Pink and yellow oyster mushrooms, to serve (optional)

Method:

1. Put the dried porcini in a bowl and pour over the warm water. Leave the mushrooms to soak for 20 minutes, then lift out with a slotted spoon. Filter the soaking water through a layer of kitchen paper in a sieve, then place it in a saucepan with the stock. Bring the liquid to a gentle simmer.
2. Spoon about 3 tablespoons of the hot stock into a cup and stir in the saffron strands. Set aside. Finely chop the porcini. Heat the oil in a separate pan and lightly saute the onion, garlic and mushrooms for 5 minutes. Gradually add the rice, stirring to coat the grains in oil. Cook for 2 minutes, stirring constantly. Season with salt and pepper.
3. Pour in the white wine. Cook, stirring, until it has been absorbed, then ladle in a quarter of the stock. Cook, stirring, until the stock has been absorbed. Gradually add the remaining stock, a little at a time, allowing the rice to absorb the liquid before adding more, and stirring constantly.
4. After about 20 minutes, when all the stock has been absorbed and the rice is cooked but still has a "bite", stir in the butter, saffron water (with the strands) and half the Parmesan. Serve, sprinkled with the remaining Parmesan. Garnish with pink and yellow oyster mushrooms, if you like.

Variations: There are endless variations on this delectable dish. The proportion of stock to rice, onions, garlic and butter must remain constant but you can ring the changes with the flavorings and cheese.

Lemon and Herb Risotto Cake

This unusual Italian dish can be served as a main course with salad, or as a satisfying side dish. It is also good served cold, and packs well for picnics. Recipe serves 4.

Ingredients:

1 small leek, finely sliced
2 1/2 cups chicken stock
Generous 1 cup risotto rice
Finely grated rind of 1 lemon
2 tablespoons snipped fresh chives
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
3/4 cup grated Mozzarella cheese
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Method:

1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F (200 degrees C). Lightly oil an 8 inch (21 cm) round loose-based cake tin.
2. Put the leek in a large pan with 3 tablespoons of the stock. Cook over a medium heat, stirring occasionally, until softened. Stir in the rice, then add the remaining stock.
3. Bring to the boil. Lower the heat, cover the pan and simmer gently, stirring occasionally, for about 20 minutes, or until all the liquid has been absorbed.
4. Stir in the lemon rind, herbs, cheese, and seasoning. Spoon the mixture into the tin, cover with foil and bake for 30-35 minutes or until lightly browned. Leave to stand for 5 minutes, then turn out. Serve hot or cold, in slices.

Tip: This risotto uses less liquid than normal and therefore has a drier consistency.

Risotto with Ricotta and Basil

This is a well-flavored Italian risotto, which benefits from the distinct pungency of basil, mellowed with smooth ricotta cheese. Recipe serves 3-4.

Ingredients:

3 tablespoons olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
1 1/2 cups risotto rice
4 cups hot chicken or vegetable stock
3/4 cup ricotta cheese
Generous 1 cup fresh basil leaves, finely chopped, plus extra to garnish
1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Method:

1. Heat the oil in a large saucepan or flameproof casserole and fry the onion over a gentle heat until soft.
2. Tip in the rice. Cook for a few minutes, stirring, until the rice is coated with oil and is slightly translucent.
3. Pour in about a quarter of the stock. Cook, stirring, until all the stock has been absorbed, then add another large spoonful. Continue in this manner, adding more stock when the previous spoonful has been absorbed, until the risotto has been cooking for about 20 minutes and the rice is just tender.
4. Spoon the ricotta into a bowl and break it up a little with a fork. Stir into the risotto along with the basil and Parmesan. Taste and adjust the seasoning, then cover and let stand for 2-3 minutes before serving, garnished with basil leaves.

Pumpkin and Pistachio Risotto

Vegetarians tired of the standard dinner party fare will love this elegant Italian combination of creamy, golden rice and orange pumpkin, and so will everyone else. It would look particularly impressive served in the hollowed-out pumpkin shell. Recipe serves 4.

Ingredients:

2 pints (1.2 litres) vegetable stock or water
Generous pinch of saffron strands
2 tablespoons (30 ml) olive oil
1 onion, chopped
2 garlic cloves, crushed
2 pound ( 1kg) pumpkin, peeled, seeded and cut into 3/4 inch (2 cm) cubes
2 cups risotto rice
7 fl oz (299 ml) dry white wine
2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1/2 cup pistachios, coarsely chopped
3 tablespoons chopped fresh marjoram or oregano, plus leaves to garnish
Salt, freshly grated nutmeg and freshly ground black pepper

Method:

1. Bring the stock or water to the boil and reduce to a low simmer. Ladle a little of it into a small bowl. Add the saffron strands and leave to infuse.
2. Heat the oil in a large, heavy-based saucepan or deep frying pan. Add the onion and garlic, and cook gently for about 5 minutes until softened. Add the pumpkin and rice and stir to coat everything in oil. Cook for a few more minutes until the rice looks transparent.
3. Pour in the wine and allow it to bubble hard. When it has been absorbed, add a quarter of the hot stock or water and the saffron liquid. Stir until all the liquid has been absorbed. Gradually add the remaining stock or water, a little at a time, allowing the rice to absorb the liquid before adding more, and stirring constantly. After 20-30 minutes the rice should be golden yellow, creamy and al dente.
4. Stir in the Parmesan cheese, cover the pan and leave the risotto to stand for 5 minutes. To finish, stir in the pistachios and marjoram or oregano. Season to taste with a little salt, nutmeg and pepper, scatter over a few marjoram or oregano leaves and serve.

Risotto with Four Vegetables

This is one of the prettiest Italian risottos, especially when made with acorn squash. Recipe serves 3-4.

Ingredients:

1 cup shelled fresh peas
1 cup green beans, cut into short lengths
2 tablespoons olive oil
3 ounces (90 g) butter
1 acorn squash, skin and seeds removed, flesh cut into matchsticks
1 onion, finely chopped
1 1/2 cups risotto rice
1/2 cup Italian dry white vermouth
4 cups boiling chicken stock
1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Method:

1. Bring a saucepan of lightly salted water to the boil, add the peas and beans and cook for 2-3 minutes, until the vegetables are just tender. Drain, refresh under cold running water, drain again and set aside.
2. Heat the oil with 1 ounce (30 g) of the butter in a medium saucepan until foaming. Add the squash and cook gently for 2-3 minutes or until just softened. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside. Add the onion to the pan and cook gently for about 3 minutes, stirring frequently, until softened.
3. Stir in the rice until the grains start to swell and burst, then add the vermouth. Stir until the vermouth stops sizzling and most of it has been absorbed by the rice, then add a few large spoonfuls of the stock, with salt and pepper to taste. Stir over a low heat until the stock has been absorbed.
4. Gradually add the remaining stock, a few spoonfuls at a time, allowing the rice to absorb the liquid before adding more, and stirring all the time.
5. After about 20 minutes, when all the stock has been absorbed and the rice is cooked and creamy but still has a "bite", gently stir in the vegetables, the remaining butter and about half the grated Parmesan. Heat through, then taste for seasoning and serve with the remaining grated Parmesan cheese served separately.

Variations: Shelled broad beans can be used instead of the peas, and asparagus tips instead of the green beans. Use zucchini if acorn squash is not available.

Risotto with Asparagus

Fresh asparagus is only in season for a short time, so it is sensible to make the most of it. This elegant Italian risotto is absolutely delicious. Recipe serves 3-4.

Ingredients:

8 ounces (250 g) fresh asparagus
3 cups vegetable or chicken stock
2 1/2 ounces (75 g) butter
1 small onion, finely chopped
1 1/2 cups risotto rice, such as Arborio or Carnaroli
1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Method:

1. Bring a pan of water to the boil. Cut off any woody pieces on the ends of the asparagus stalks, peel the lower portions, then cook in the water for 5 minutes. Drain the asparagus, reserving the cooking water, refresh under cold water and drain again. Cut the asparagus diagonally into 1 1/2 inch (4 cm) pieces. Keep the tip and next-highest sections separate from the stalks.
2. Place the stock in a saucepan and add 3/4 pint (450 ml) of the asparagus cooking water. Heat to simmering point, and keep it hot.
3. Melt two-thirds of the butter in a large, heavy-based saucepan or deep frying pan. Add the onion and fry until it is soft and golden. Stir in all the asparagus except the top two sections. Cook for 2-3 minutes. Add the rice and cook for 1-2 minutes, mixing well to coat it with butter. Stir in a large spoonful of the hot liquid. Using a wooden spoon, stir until the stock has been absorbed.
4. Gradually add the remaining stock, a little at a time, allowing the rice to absorb the liquid before adding more, and stirring all the time.
5. After 10 minutes, add the remaining asparagus sections. Continue to cook as before, for about 15 minutes, until the rice is al dente and the risotto is creamy. Off the heat, stir in the remaining butter and the Parmesan. Grind in a little black pepper, and taste again for salt. Serve at once.